Backpacking Java In Indonesia

When I decided to backpack Indonesia, I was picturing temples, rice terraces, tea plantations, epic volcanoes, stunning beaches and epic sunsets. I wanted to backpack Java and then, simply relax in one of those charming Bali villas. ;It sounded like THE dream!

I didn’t research it too much, and, boom; it was already booked! Backpacking full-time isn’t always easy. I mean; between enjoying a new country, planning the next few days, planning the next country, looking for visa requirements and blogging about it… I thought I had everything under control.

They said; “Wonderful Indonesia”… and I was on my way!

I had no idea it was still Ramadan. I had no idea Java was mainly Muslim. I had no idea Manila’s traffic wasn’t that bad after all.

A few days before my flight, I read very quickly about Java so I can set up a rough itinerary. They said; you should skip Jakarta. I thought; let’s go anyway, I want to see it myself.  Been there! So, they were right; skip it! Unless you like traffic… and if you do, check this great list of things to do in Jakarta, and please, try to enjoy it!

The second stop on my itinerary was Bandung so I can see Kawah Putih. I didn’t realize how far the crater was from the city. Well, far; 40 kilometres isn’t too far right? But, it can be if you consider the factor “Indonesian Traffic Jam”.Okay, let’s be honest; I picked the worst timing as it was nearly the end of the Ramadan and people travel a long way to spend time with their loved ones. Basically, the 40 kilometres took 3 hours including an hour and a half sharing a tiny 11 passenger van with 21 people. Should I mention that there was a kid throwing up? I was struggling. They were laughing at me… obviously. And they were right. I would have laughed at myself too. So, picture this; 3 hours to get there; 3 hours to get back… so how long should I stay to make the most of this? 40 minutes wasn’t enough, right? Well, I met a young local who was looking for models for an online t-shirt shop. So, guess who has modeling skills now?

I came back to Bandung completely unsatisfied… Thank God, massages are cheap in Indonesia.  It was well deserved!

The third stop was Yogyakarta. Trains were fully booked and I had to take a bus, which is more expensive. Although, I thought I had learned something in the Philippines and decided to take the bus without AC so I can save a few rupees (AC in the Philippines buses was insanely cold!). They said; it’s an overnight bus. It should take around 12 hours and you’ll be there in the morning.

They didn’t mention anything about cleanliness, but the bus was already a mess when I entered it.  I found my seat and I was ready to fall asleep. But… it was raining that night.

Sad truth; sewer systems are not very efficient in Indonesia. Roads were flooded and it took us around 3 hours to get out of the region. Bonus; it was even raining in the bus so we can cool down.

We made our first stop at 1AM and the only other person who could speak English told me we would arrive later; around 2 or 3 PM. Fair enough, there was nothing we could do about it.

We made a second stop at 11:30AM and the old man told me that we will reach our destination at 7PM instead. At 6PM, he told me we had 2-3 hours left. Two hours later, he told me we had another 2 hours left. This was insane. Kids were throwing up everywhere, sweat was the new perfume… and good on them; they were still laughing at me.

I made it to Yogyakarta after a painful 27 hours.

So, if you’re planning to go to Java; here’s what you need to know about the Ramadan.

• Once a year, Muslims will spend a month fasting from sunrise to sunset;
• During this month, they purify their soul by praying, practicing self-discipline and sacrifice;
• They will celebrate the end of the Ramadan – Eid al-Fitr with their family and friends.

If you are traveling in Indonesia during this period of the year, I’d recommend you to;

• Book all your trains in advance (this is the cheapest transportation in Java);
• Book your accommodation or tours for Bromo and Ijen in advance if required;
• Consider starting at Bali and then heading to Java.

Why? A lot of people will travel across the country to visit their family for the celebrations.

So, you want to make the most of Java without spending all your precious time in Indonesia here? Here’s the java backpacking route I’d recommend the following destinations.

Yogyakarta

To get to Prambanan Temple, you can take a bus (line 1A) from Malioboro Street (next to the tourist information centre). Once you arrived at the bus stop, you can walk or take a bekab ride to reach the temple.

To get to Borobodur Temple, you can take a bus (line 2B) to reach Jombur Bus Station. From there, you can take a second bus (Jogja-Borobudur). You can walk to reach the temple.

You can also take a tour organized by your hostel if you want to experience a sunrise/sunset.  The tour might not include the entrance fees, but you won’t have to worry about getting there.

If you are planning to visit both temples, I’d recommend you mention it when you buy your entrance ticket so you can get a discount.  Your hostel might be able to provide you a cheaper ticket one-day prior departure.  If you’re a student, enjoy the big discount (50% of the cost; so bring your student ID). The adult cost for both places is IDR 416,000.

Find Accommodation Now!

Mount Bromo

To get to Mount Bromo, you have different options.

• Book a tour
• Do it without a tour

How to do it without a tour

• From Yogyakarta, book a train to reach Probolinggo. (I had to take a train to Surabaya and then to Probolinggo.)
• Put your social face on and meet new friends on the train.
• Take a public bus to Cemoro Lawang or hire a van with your new friends to reach your destination. If there are no public buses available, don’t freak out, you can always find a van.  It will take around an hour – an hour and a half to reach Cemoro Lawang.
• Book a night / Walk-in your accommodation. (I’ll come back to this point later)
• Wake up around 2AM and go out there around 2h30AM. (You can confirm times with the staff at your hostel/guesthouse).
• Hike your way up and enjoy. (The staff can provide you with all the information you need to do it without a tour) You won’t have to go all the way up there if you want to avoid the crowds!

Where to stay

The closest places I know are Café Lava Hostel and Yog Homestay (Yog is way cheaper).

If both are fully booked, I’d recommend you go to Yoschi’s Hostel, which is 5 kilometres from the Trekking point.  Though, you’ll be able to hire a 4×4 to reach that point. Again, you can share costs with your new friends.

What to bring

Your head torch, water, food if required and a jacket as it will be pretty cold out there!

Need more information about Bromo? Check this budget guide to Bromo.

Ijen

To get to Ijen, you also have different options!

• Book a tour
• Do it without a tour

How to do it without a tour

• From Probolinggo, take a train or a bus to Banyuwangi.
• Put your social face on and meet new friends on your way!
• Take a public bus or hire a van to reach the towns around the mountain! You can also sleep in Banyuwangi but you’ll be pretty far from it!  Our driver drove us until we could find accommodation.  We ended up in a small guest house an hour from the trekking point.
• Wake up around 00h45AM and go out there around 1h00AM. (You can confirm times with the staff at your hostel/guesthouse depending on your location).
• I didn’t find any way of avoiding the entrance fees in Ijen. (IDR 150,000)
• Hike your way up and enjoy. This is super steep!  Like… seriously… steep.
• Once you’ve reached the top, go down to get the blue fires. Then, hike back up and enjoy the views! You can even hike longer and try to spot the pretty lake!  The view is simply surreal!

What to bring

Your head torch, water, food if required and a jacket as it will be pretty cold out there!

If you’re running out of time and you need to decide between Bromo and Ijen, I’d recommend Bromo! 

If you’re too tired, you can also do Ijen during the day as long as you don’t mind missing out the blue fires. 

Transfer to Bali

The ferry takes around an hour and it costs only IDR 6,000.  In Gilimanuk, you’ll find many buses to reach your next destination! If you’re heading to Denpasar, you shouldn’t pay more than IDR 50,000.

Note that you can also do this itinerary starting in Bali and transfer to Java.

Transportation in Java

Angkot: In Jakarta and in Bandung, you’ll find some colorful minibusses.  This is the cheapest way to travel around these cities. Costs can vary between IDR 3,000 and 10,000. I’d recommend you ask the staff from your hostel what’s the average cost for short distances to make sure drivers are not taking advantage of you.

Ojek – Bekab (whatever they call it): Same concept than a taxi, but on a motorbike. You need to bargain the cost before you get on the bike. Ladies, please, be careful at night.

Damri Buses: From Jakarta airport, these buses will bring you out of the city or in the city centre. Costs will vary considering the destination. To reach your hostel in Jakarta, it will cost around IDR 40,000. These buses are also reaching many other cities.

Taxis: This is the most expensive way to get around. I’d recommend you insist to use the meter.  Most of the drivers will refuse though.

Long-distance buses: You can’t book them online, you need to go directly to the bus station. This is not the cheapest way to travel between cities, but it’s good for a plan B. A lot of pickpockets can be around (also in the bus), so always keep your bag with you and don’t put it under the bus. They will try to rip you off. So, be patient!

Trains: This is the cheapest way to get around Java. Bonus; they normally have AC and they are pretty clean. Note that you should always arrive an hour prior departure for trains as recommended by the locals. Traffic jams are unpredictable and you’ll have to check-in.